Apple Paint Brush

Spraying Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint

#1324

I need to spray a lavender color. I couldn't find Lavender in my paint library. My wife had planned a Wallymart mission so I accompanied her. I scored a bottle of $.87 Apple Barrel 21977E Wisteria acrylic. Looks like it's a bit thick and flat.
Does anyone have experience reducing(?) and spraying Apple Barrel Acrylic? Is it even possible.
Help,
Dusty Burman

#1331

#1332

If you look on the Model Railroad Hobbyist web site they have a color conversion chart to different brands and also a guide to spraying acrylics including the cheap craft acrylics.

Pete

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On Sep 24, 2018, at 1:30 PM, Dusty <dustburm@q.com> wrote:

I need to spray a lavender color. I couldn't find Lavender in my paint library. My wife had planned a Wallymart mission so I accompanied her. I scored a bottle of $.87 Apple Barrel 21977E Wisteria acrylic. Looks like it's a bit thick and flat.
Does anyone have experience reducing(?) and spraying Apple Barrel Acrylic? Is it even possible.
Help,
Dusty Burman

#1334

Lets try this again.
Yes, you can spray cheap craft store acrylics. I use Liquetex airbrush medium or Armourall auto windshield cleaner. I used to use Windex but found the ammonia in the Windex also dissolved what you had just sprayed if you got the paint too thin.
Thin the paint to milk consistency.. I don't drink milk so had to play around to get it right. I use an airbrush to spray on. You'll have to play around with your airbrush to get the feel for what works right. I'm usually around 20-30 lbs psi with a medium needle.
If you want a satin finish add Pledge floor wax (not really a wax but acrylic). The Pledge can be shot straight for a gloss finish.. just be aware that a strong decal solvent (Walther's Solvaset) can eat through the gloss coat. I ended up using Testors glosscoat to prevent this. If using dry transfer lettering this won't be an issue.
ALSO.. not all craft paints are equal. IMHO.. Americana and Delta Ceramcoat are the best. Folkart.. brush painting only.
I'm painting a reefer with Americana Hauser Dark green right now. Walmart grey primer as a base. Pledge gloss coat but had to redo with Testors glosscoat as mentioned before. Nice thing with airbrushing is you don't obscure the details as can happen with brush painting.
Have fun,
Gordon Spalty

#1336

Dusty, because of my asthma, I had to give up on my airbrush and brush paint with Apple Barrel acrylic. My next project might involve a primer (many folks use Walmart’s Color Place gray primer). Here’s what I’m working on.
I know that yellow paint won’t cover that red lettering. Gray spray primer might be best with a brushed top coat of yellow?
In your situation, lavender might also do well over gray primer. Maybe test it out on a 3 x 5 card first? If it covers up the lines on the card, you’ve got a winner. Keep us posted! Chris Kodani

#1337

Hi Dusty,

My current favorite formula for a reducer to spray anything is:

50% Liquitex Flow aid (diluted 20:1 with distilled water)
50% Liquitex Airbrush Medium
Varying amount of Liquitex 126704 Professional Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder Effects Medium depending on trial and error to eliminate/minimze tip dry

The amount of reducer to use is determined by trial and error, because I have found a huge variation between viscosities of even the same manufactuer of craft paints. I typically start with 50%reducer to 50% paint for Ceramcoat craft paint and test spraying on cardboard. During test runs, I use extra retarder to try and prevent tip try. With some experimentation, I think you can do this. BTW, I found that the Liquitex retarder was not carried by craft stores, but got it from Amazon.
Also, STAY AWAY from Golden retarder, as I have found it, after many attempts, to end up causing more airbrush blockage and tip try - I know that that is counterintuitive, but I have tried several bottles and will not use it ever again for airbrush work. I might work for non-airbrush work, but I don't have any experience with that.
Let me know how this works out for you.
Cheers,
George

#1338

Monday I mixed small (1/4 oz. Binks bottle) batch of the lavender Apple Barrel. Paint, Future and one drop of Createx retarder I brushed some on white and black styrene pieces. It was opaque, very glossy and self leveled nicely. I believe if I added a bit more Future it would go thru my Testors Aztek successfully.
I mark my tools with PolyScale Reefer Orange and am down to my last half bottle. So when my wife directed me to go on an impulse grocery mission I diverted to WallyMart and scored a bottle of Apple Barrel glossy Great Pumpkin Orange (or something). I mixed a small batch much like the lavender and marked some file handles. I put them in my very 'HiTech' bread box with a 40 watt light bulb to cure. Again they look good but time will tell how tough the Future gets.
I look at Apple Barrel paints as a readily available source of diverse colors, not so much as a cheap Polyscale replacement.
While I was at Walmart chasing down grilling buns and burger I checked on Future in the cleaning isle. It's now labeled 'Finish', 22 oz. for $6 and change.
Dusty Burman

#1339

George,
You have specified the details about the Liquitex additives, but how much paint is added to this mix.?
Thanks Jim

#1340

Hi Jim,
The paint to 'thinner' mix varies greatly. I have a batch of Badger 'air brush ready' paints, and even in that brand my ratio varies significantly. For a Metallic iron paint, I use no thinner, but do add retarder, whereas for some Delta Ceramcoat paints, I use 50%+ of thinner.
Experimentation on cheap cardboard is the best way to discover what works best for you.
What I like about 'My' thinner, is that is all one vendor which means I won't have any mismatched products, and the MSDS sheets don't show hazards for spraying.
Also, by using one formula for 'thinner', I have reduced variabilities.
Cheers,
George

#1341

I also test the paint, but also have a bunch of plastic disposable plates as test surfaces. These are actually thin styrene, so I feel that it's better to use this non-porous material for styrene and brass. I use a cardboard box side when painting wood models, though.

Mike Conder

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On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 4:19 AM George Saridakis <george@..> wrote:

Hi Jim,
The paint to 'thinner' mix varies greatly. I have a batch of Badger 'air brush ready' paints, and even in that brand my ratio varies significantly. For a Metallic iron paint, I use no thinner, but do add retarder, whereas for some Delta Ceramcoat paints, I use 50%+ of thinner.
Experimentation on cheap cardboard is the best way to discover what works best for you.
What I like about 'My' thinner, is that is all one vendor which means I won't have any mismatched products, and the MSDS sheets don't show hazards for spraying.
Also, by using one formula for 'thinner', I have reduced variabilities.
Cheers,
George

#1342

Dusty, you know, I got to thinking, and now I've gotta ask: just WHAT THE HECK are you spraying a lavender color?

#1351

I saw some Chateau Martin wine car decals from Proto Craft. These cars were ex milk cars. Their decal info said the car was Lavender. Internet research leads me to believe the cars were burgandy. It appears that later some of the cars may have faded to the Lavender but I'm not sure what color 60 year old burgandy slides or prints morph into.
Dusty Burman

#1353

Here is a link to a page on Chateau Martin Wine cars with a lot of photos, pick your color.

Ken Martin

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On Sep 28, 2018, at 1:37 PM, Dusty <dustburm@q.com> wrote:

I saw some Chateau Martin wine car decals from Proto Craft. These cars were ex milk cars. Their decal info said the car was Lavender. Internet research leads me to believe the cars were burgandy. It appears that later some of the cars may have faded to the Lavender but I'm not sure what color 60 year old burgandy slides or prints morph into.
Dusty Burman

#1355

Just a follow up: here’s a light coat of Walmart Color Place gray primer. It covered up the red lettering, but did not obscure the details. Also important: no sign of plastic incompatibility. I’d say this stuff is a good primer for model railroad equipment.

#1356

Dusty, please share pics as your wine reefer progresses! I think that burgundy and lavender cars would add some welcome relief from the usual boxcar red and Pullman green.
Chris Kodani
Painting in HOn30 with Walmart Primer

#1358

Kent Hurley

Check out my blog at http://nvrr49.blogspot.com/

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From: Dusty <dustburm@q.com>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 12:30 PM
Subject: [HOn3] Spraying Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint

#1391

I called Testors - Rustoleum to find a match for Acrylic Tie Brown in the solvent military colors. My locally convenient military shop has ten shades of panzer grey but no RR colors. Testers has many paint rack assortments I learned. No one cares about color matching but I did learn about Future and current Testors Acrylics. They are now very comparable. The person who answered my call was the lady who painted figures and used Future with PolyScale that I had conversed with many, many moons ago.
Dusty Burman

#1476
Edited

#1480

Progress report.
Here's the glass lined tanks 'reefer' so far. Too cheap to use Blackstone passenger trucks so I used MDC. I didn't cut car lines for the roof radius. I bent .020 x .030 scribed around copper 1/2(?) And ACCed onto a roof plug with an .080 x .080 center stringer. Good enough for a farcical purple wine car.
Dusty Burman

#1483

Chris et.al.
Does anyone know what this car is?
It looks enough like a box car to fool the average tourist, but take a close look. The door hangers are particularly blatant. The safety appliances might pass current standards, but are nothing like any historic car. It is built on a steel frame of about 40' length, probably one of the later pipe gons converted from circa 1914 SG box and stock cars. The trucks look to be the 40ton ASF cast steel version, as used under the 6500s, but this car lacks the 6500s' fishbelly.
John Stutz

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On 10/16/2018 05:46 AM, Chris Kodani via Groups.Io wrote:

Dusty, I saw this article, and immediately thought about your project! It
would appear that lavender is completely prototypical, even in 3 ft narrow
gauge! https://durangoherald.com/articles/86339

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2. A small triangle in the lower right corner of the brush icon represents hidden tool options. Long press the brush icon to reveal the Brushes panel.

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You can adjust brush properties from the floating options panel to suit your creative work.

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From the tool options, tap an icon to select the attribute and modify:

Color chip: The color chip allows you to choose a color from the color picker, enter a hex color code, or enter numbers for HSB, RGB, Lab, or CMYK colors. You can swipe the color chip vertically to easily switch between the foreground and background colors.
Brush size: The brush size option allows you to choose the diameter of your brush, which can vary in size from 1 to 1000 pixels. As you vary the brush size, you can also see the brush tip preview beside the tool options bar.
Opacity: The opacity option sets the maximum transparency of the color you apply per brush stroke. 100% opacity represents opaqueness. As you paint over an area, the opacity doesn't exceed the set level until you complete the stroke (even when you paint over an area several times).
Hardness: The hardness setting controls the size of the brush’s hard center. Select a value that is a percentage of the brush diameter.
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Tool options corresponding to the Brush tool in Photoshop on the iPad

Swipe the color chip vertically to switch between the two colors in the tool options.

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Fine-tune your Apple Pencil sensitivity on a scale from Light to Heavy.

Left: Primary touch shortcut. Right: Secondary touch shortcut.